January Guild Newsletter Volume 23, Issue 1 |
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All hail The King of Gemstones, a gemstone that exudes intense and evocative emotions of love, power, fire and passion. Akin to the blood that runs through our veins, the humble but mighty Ruby. Article by Louisa Scott |
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What's in a Name? The ancient Sanskrit name for ruby 'Ratnaraj', is where the meaning of the King of Gemstones comes from, and it is no surprise why. One of the big four (the others being diamond, emerald and sapphire), rubies are the rarest and arguably the most valuable of this group of important gemstones. A member of the corundum family (as is sapphire), it is the presence of chromium which gives ruby its fabulous red colour. The chromium also accounts for fluorescence which gives rubies a particular fire-like glow, however this also causes cracks and fissures in the stone, so finding high quality large crystals is rare. |
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For the finest rubies in the world we must journey to Mogok, a historic city nestled in the remote hills of Myanmar, known previously as Burma. If you are lucky enough to travel there you will find yourself in ‘Ruby Land’ - a valley adorned with golden-tipped Buddhist temples in and amongst lush gem baring greenlands. For centuries, these hills have been legendary for the abundance of gemstones and locals were said to just come upon gems glinting in the grass in their gardens. A significant source since at least 600AD, today there are around 1000 working mines to be found there and the global supply has reduced considerably. |
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The Grandest of Them All. Amongst the most famous rubies ever found in this region is the Sunrise Ruby - weighing an incredible 25.59cts. This pigeon blood red ruby broke three records when it sold for $30.3 million at a Sotheby's auction in 2015. It fetched not only the highest price per carat, but also the highest auction price for a ruby and Cartier's most expensive gemstone ever used. David Bennett, the worldwide |
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chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division commented: “In over 40 years, I cannot recall ever having seen another Burmese ruby of this exceptional size, possessing such outstanding colour”. |
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In addition to Myanmar, Mozambique is also a hotspot source for gem quality ruby, and the most valuable of all African rubies due to its brilliant red hue and high transparency. Only discovered in the late 2000’s, Mozambique mines have had a huge impact on global trade and now account for a large proportion of rubies you find in the market today. Admired by Many Since ancient times ruby has been admired and adorned for its mystery, power and riches by many cultures around the world. Particularly prized in Asian countries, records suggest that rubies were traded along the Silk Road as early as 200 BC. Incredible legends tell us of Myanmar warriors inserting rubies under their skin to make them invincible in battle, Chinese noblemen embellishing their armour with rubies for protection, and in India it was believed that rubies would grant their owners peace with their enemies. |
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Not only a sought after gem in Ancient Eastern civilisations, Ruby has been prized throughout history in the Western world for its associations with good health, wisdom, wealth and success in love. Particularly revered by European Royalty we can find some wonderful examples of craftsmanship with breathtaking rubies such as this Burmese Ruby Tiara belonging to Queen Elizabeth II. Set with 96 rubies which were gifted to her by the people of Burma - each ruby was to symbolise and protect her against 96 illnesses said to befall the people of their country. |
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For centuries, men and women in love, or in mourning, have used the locket as a sentimental symbol to make their joy or pain physical. European designs for lockets date to the beginning of the 16th century, when pendants were worn to conceal good luck charms, small fabric squares soaked in perfume to ward off the poor smells in public places, painted portraits, and even on occasion, poison. Lockets were not only worn around the neck as a pendant, but also as finger rings and brooches. |
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16th Century During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (1558-1603), lockets were used to hold cherished keepsakes. The Queen made them fashionable by giving them as gifts, each with a small, exquisite hand-painted portrait of her inside. Her own exquisite locket ring is made from a band of mother of pearl and gold and studded with large diamonds and rubies. It was commissioned in 1575 and features a hidden portrait of her mother Anne Boleyn. |
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17th Century By the mid 17th century, lockets had gained even more sentimental purpose and became an important way to commemorate the death of an individual. Mourning jewellery became hugely popular around the time of the execution of Charles I in 1649, and his loyal followers wore miniature portraits of the King set in concealed compartments within their lockets, brooches and locket rings. |
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18th Century In the 17th century, locks of hair were also enclosed in elaborate lockets but they were hidden from view. By the 18th century however, the lock of hair had become a central and visible part of the locket's design. The hair was now intricately curled or plaited inside the locket pendant, ring or brooch, to be admired. Many lockets of the 18th century were transparent allowing the lock of hair inside to be clearly visible, even magnified, when being worn. |
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19th Century By the 19th century, locket pendants saw a resurgence in popularity thanks, in part, to Queen Victoria. A first birthday gift from her mother, Queen Victoria's first locket must have been dear to her heart, as she would go on to give, as well as receive hundreds of lockets throughout her life. When Prince Albert died in 1861, the Queen went into permanent mourning. She took to only wearing black and wore a lock of Albert's hair inside her locket at all times. |
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20th Century 20th century lockets maintained their sentimental status while keeping up with fashion trends. No matter if it was of art deco style or a throw back to early days, mass production meant lockets were available to more consumers and ways to personalize them has become wildly popular. Less mourning jewellery and more symbols of love, the locket continues to hold a special place in jewellery lover's hearts. |
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First Things First, What is Solder Paste? Solder paste is a mixture of metal solder powder, flux (and a binder) - two elements required to successfully solder together two pieces of metal. Much like any other form of solder, such as solder strip or wire, you can get solder paste in different types of alloys including silver and gold. You can also get solder paste that melts at different temperatures (hard, medium, easy). Essentially, solder paste is like any other form of solder you can buy – just pre-mixed with flux. |
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Next Things Next, How do you use Solder Paste? One of the best things about using silver solder paste is the fact that it comes in a syringe. This makes the application of solder paste incredibly precise – excellent for soldering jump rings together. Simply remove the cap from your syringe and secure the needle that comes with it in place. Don’t lose the plastic cap or syringe cap. |
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Clean the metal so that it is free from any debris, grease or fingerprints. Make sure that the join you’re soldering is completely flush. Apply the solder paste to the join or area of metal that is going to be soldered. You might need a little more than you expect. Wipe away any excess solder paste from the syringe and replace the cap. |
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Apply heat to the solder join in a circular motion. Use the same heating technique that you would use with solder strip or wire. The binder in your solder paste mixture will bubble and eventually burn off. If you are unhappy with the solder join, re-clean your piece, add some more solder paste to the join and reheat using the same steps. Once you’re happy with your solder |
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joint, quench and pickle it to remove any oxidisation. If you find any burrs or bits of excess solder, simply file them away for a neat, professional finish. |
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And Finally, Last Things Last. Making solder paste last. To make sure your paste lasts, always store it properly. Wipe the syringe clean and securely fasten the syringe cap after each use. This will keep your paste from drying up. If stored correctly, your paste can last more than two years. If you don't have plans to use the paste again shortly after its first use, remove the needle from the syringe and reattach the plastic lid. For added assurance, you can put the syringe in a zip-top bag. If, by chance, your syringe needle gets clogged, try soaking it in warm water to loosen the dry paste. If the dry paste is particularly stubborn, you can use a thin piece of metal wire and feed it through the syringe to remove the paste completely. |
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“The new Argentium solder paste is wonderful, I use it to solder all my hand made chains, and other tasks like soldering on earring posts. It flows really well, and the colour match is excellent.” This double frond necklace by Annette Petch in Argentium 940 with handmade chain and findings was soldered using Argentium Solder Paste available on the Argentium Guild website. | | |
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Identify the tool Choose from: Bail Making Pliers Flat Nose Pilers Clippy Thing Cutters Snip Nose Pilers Thing-a-ma-jig Pliers Side Cutters Half Round Pilers Whatsit Pliers Round Nose Pliers Crimp Pliers Send your answers to newsletter@argentiumsilver.com to win an Argentium Apron. One winner will be drawn at random from all correct entries. |
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*Please note, this is an independent photo competition not connected to Argentium Silver or the Argentium Silver Guild. |
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Stock up on Findings Shop the findings section of our website and save 15%. It's a good time to stock up for your valentine's projects. Use LOVE15 when you check out for the discount to apply. |
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FREE SHIPPING ON ALL UK ORDERS ONLY OVER £80 FROM THE ARGENTIUM GUILD WEBSITE (Royal Mail - 1st Class) |
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Question: I would like to specialize in Argentium Silver for my jewelry products. I need clarification on the purity of the metal. I am working with 935 Argentium Silver, can I assume that all the properties of 940 are also true for Argentium Sterling 930? - Helga Answer: Both 935 and 940 are purer than standard Sterling, is tarnish resistant, whiter in colour, has antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties and a fire-stain free surface. Question: I have an interest in producing some of my products in Argentium. Can you please advise me if you can supply Argentium sheet in 0.02” (0.51 mm) in a width of approximately 14” (360mm) x 38” (1 m). - Gary Answer: We certainly can provide Argentium Silver in the sheet size you require. The largest width of sheet we can supply is 500mm. |
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We love our guild members |
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George Wood Mary Duggan Evonne Low Michèle Courtemanche |
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Peter Mulhall Gaby Shultz Carolina Quiroa Helen Moody |
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For all of our new and existing Members... we love to see and share your work, so please send us some photographs that we can display in our online Gallery, together with a link to your website, online shop, Instagram or Facebook Page |
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INHORGENTA MUNICH With around 800 exhibitors and a high level of internationality, INHORGENTA MUNICH reaffirms its position as Europe's leading trade fair for jewelry, watches and gemstones. |
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"Again, the participation in INHORGENTA MUNICH is growing to become more international than ever. So far, around 800 exhibitors have registered, almost half of which—48 percent—come from abroad," explains Maritta Lepp, INHORGENTA’s Exhibition Director. Included in that 48% and attending for the first time is Argentium Silver, with instructors and artisans Christine Zock and Elizabeth Hunt. Sharing demos, designs, and highlighting the unique characteristics of Argentium Silver, Christine Zock and Elizabeth Hunt are excited to bring Argentium Silver to INHORGENTA |
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Visit the Argentium Booth Argentium instructors, Christine Zock and Elizabeth Hunt, will be hosting demos and answering questions about Argentium Silver, throughout the day, as well as sharing information on available instructional classes. You can Find the Argntium Silver booth A2.122 in the Technology and Bijou Hall. |
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MEET our Argentium Instructors at INHORGENTA |
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Christine Zock, Argentium Instructor & Artisan Christine gains great pleasure in creating clean jewellery designs for everyday use. She enjoys using high quality materials such as 22k Gold and Argentium Silver - wonderful materials that complement and support the beauty of her designs.
With a classical education as a goldsmith in Germany, Christine trained for many years, working in different goldsmith workshops in North Germany. She feels very fortunate to have learnt so much from her highly talented master goldsmiths. |
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At the start of 2018, Christine successfully completed the first part of the “Argentium Instructors Certification” and completed the full programme in 2020. With great love and enjoyment she teaches people about the magical world of Argentium Silver in both German and English languages. Christine states that “Argentium Silver has completely changed my career as a goldsmith. This amazing silver enabled a completely new way of working for me, with new possibilities for my jewellery making. Many of the problems associated with regular Silver vanishes, opening up many more possibilities for creative work”. |
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Elizabeth Hunt, Argentium Instructor & Artisan Elizabeth completed her BA hons in Silversmithing and Jewellery Design at Sir John Cass School of Art (part of the Guildhall University). Her degree covered not just the use of precious metals, but also mixed materials including ceramics and glass. On completion of her degree she gained employment by the world renowned ceramics company Wedgwood. During this time, one of her combined silver, ceramic and diamond set designs was shortlisted by De Beers for the Diamond Day stakes Trophy at Ascot. |
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Her career in the jewellery industry has also included self employment where she worked with clients as diverse as Jaguar cars, Aspreys, Mappin and Webb, The Goldsmiths Group and Argent Provocateur - developing products and lines for their broad customer bases.
Elizabeth has been involved with Argentium Silver since 2011 and has loved the material since she first returned to making. Elizabeth states that “working in Argentium Silver is an exciting and stimulating experience and I love sharing the unique benefits and attributes of this wonderful material." |
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Don't Miss Out The fair will take place from February 24 to 27, 2023. We have a limited number of one-day tickets available for our customers. Reply to this email to get your free INHORGENTA Munich ticket (valued at €45). |
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History of the Charm Bracelet Tips and Hints New Offers Just for Fun Your Questions Answered |
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